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Art Tools Part Two

  1. Sakura Sumo Grip Retractable Eraser: This is a large foam eraser that I use for erasing the under drawing (when I bother to). Foam erasers can erase almost anything and less aggressive on paper and less corrosive than Uni’s Boxy Eraser. The down side is that you can burn through them faster than other erasers.

  2. Tombow Mono One Air Touch Eraser: Another foam eraser but this is my go to eraser for general color pencil drawings. The holder is little bit more than an inch long and it is the smallest form factor for foam erasers that I have found. So it isn’t great for detail work but it is the best I’ve found.

  3. Sakura Arch Foam Eraser 60: Same purpose as the Sumo Grip but they are cheap and you can sometimes find them in bundles of 6 to 8. I toss one in every pencil case and art box I have.

  4. 2.3mm Tombow Mono Zero Eraser: This is for detail work. It is a regular eraser so it doesn’t work on color pencil very well but for regular graphite/pencil lead drawing it is amazing. You can sometimes get a bunch of the refills on the cheap off of Amazon.

  5. Tombow Rectangle Eraser: Same as the 2.3mm eraser but with a rectangle shape. I’m testing it out and so far it is just another form factor for an eraser. Erasing along an edge can create sharp thin lines.

  6. An old model of the Pentel Click Eraser: I mostly have this our of nostalgia because it is what I used in grade school. For regular graphite vinyl eraser are fantastic and are gentle on paper. I prefer the this form factor because it fits easier into pencil cases.

  7. The Quicker Clicker: I hord classic Quicker Clickers without the grip because they are discontinued and it is what I learned to draw with. But I have found that the new version with the grip is easier on my old fingers. As much as I prefer the original, the new one doesn’t strain my hand after prolonged use. This is my primary writing pencil. I prefer .5mm for drawing and .7mm for writing.

Art Tools Part One

  1. A plastic nib Micron pen with blue black ink: The plastic nib creates a very consistent line but wears down over time. So the lines will start thin and get bigger as you wear away the nip. I use it in my bullet journal. The blue black ink is just nice novelty for taking notes.

  2. Zebra Zensations Double-Sided Brush Pen: I use the big brush tip to fill in big fields of black when inking. The small brush tip is good for detail work but I mostly use it to fill in nooks and crannies.

  3. Kuretake Extra Fine pocket brush: For fine detail inking. I like the Kuretake because the brush tips hold up longer in my limited experience.

  4. Kuretake Fine pocket brush: All purpose inking pen. It is a bit stiffer than other brush pens I’ve used. I prefer stiffer brush nibs because I have a unsteady hand and the and the stiffness helps prevent unintended variation in line width.

  5. A standard 0.7mm Pentel Sharp Drafting Pencil with erasable red color pencil lead: I use both red and blue color pencils for the under drawing. I use mechanical pencils so I don’t have to carry a sharpener and the Pentil Sharp specifically because it is easy to find it with different color bodies to help distinguish what color lead is inside.

  6. Same 0.7mm Pentel Sharp Pencil with blue erasable pencil lead: I’ve tried a few types of erasable color pencil leads. The Paper Mate color pencils are a good start because you can find them almost anywhere (Target, Wal-Mart, OfficeMax) but they are darker and intended for actual coloring instead of under drawings.

  7. A 0.5mm Pentel Graph Gear 1000 with 4H Pentel Ain Stein Lead: Long story short I inherited 3 magical 4H wooden pencils that super smooth (they don’t scratch paper like normal 4H pencils) and erase like a dream. I’ve spent over a decade trying to find a replacement for them and this is the closest I’ve gotten. The Ain Stein Lead doesn’t scratch (other than just being really pointy) and erase clean. I use the Graph Gear 1000 because it took forever to find this alternative and I want to treat the lead nicely.

The actual point of the 4H lead is that it is super light in value so it is great for under drawing, shading, and this particular lead will erase easily when cleaning up inked drawings. I’ve mostly moved on to using the red and blue pencil lead exclusively but I keep it handy.

Blue Moon Wizard

Still working on the cardgame. I switched it to just a regular 3 way roshambo (blue, red, yellow) and redrew a few cards.

Here is a concept for the top of a card drawn on a Post-It Note. I like putting the number and suit/color pip in the top left like in traditional player cards rather than in the top right like the Pokemon card game or Magic the Gathering. I was originally going to do four suits/colors based on traditional playing cards as well but dropped it for the rowshambo idea.

Card Game Prototype

I’ve been working on a card game that really is just a vehicle for me to draw card sized illustrations. The core mechanic is a five way roshambo that can be expanded in various ways. The art aside there are few exams that I hope to adhere to.

  • Game should be simple enough that if someone simply tossed all the cards together it should still be playable.
  • The rules should be simple enough that most of the rules can be inferred from cards.
  • If one or more rules are misinterpreted or altered it doesn’t break the game.

Part of the reason for those exams is that, in my experience, most kids didn’t know how to play the Pokemon Trading Card Game. Growing up I knew a lot of kids who made up their own rules based on what they thought the rules were. My hope is that if the rules aren’t clear then a close approximation of the rules should still be a playable game.

I’m probably putting way too much effort into these prototype cards. All they are for is to get a sense of the roshambo mechanic.